Mo’orea, dreaming of Pineapple Fields

I remember my first sight of Mo’orea, on the ferry from Tahiti, the sunrise just about to invade the horizon: the island was calm and mountainous, and I was not yet fully realizing the utmost beauty and remoteness of my current whereabouts. I was a long way from home, in the midst of the Pacific ocean, having flown more than 30-hours to reach paradise.

The moment of arriving after so many hours of flight brought an overwhelming mix of joy and eager anticipation to experience everything at once. Tears welled up as I realized we had finally touched down in Papeete, the capital of Tahiti, greeted at 5 a.m. by a band of Polynesian singers—just as I had seen countless times in my online research. Finally, it was my turn to experience the island firsthand, and nothing could have felt more exhilarating.

We would begin with a week in Mo’orea, then another in Bora Bora, before wrapping up our journey with a final stay in Tahiti.

Jetlagged but high on the sentiment that we were someplace awesome, we headed straight for the Sofitel Belvedere, a vantage point on the island. Flower garland hanging on my neck, I remember admiring in awe the view of the famous Sofitel bungalows, stretching beautifully into the translucent waters. A perfect first taste of French Polynesia and a postcard-perfect place, which I have honored by changing attires a couple of times, eager to earn my place in the exotic backdrop.

Sofitel Belvedere

Right next to Sofitel, there is a nice snorkeling spot and despite our tiredness, we plunged straight into the emerald waters, looking for topical fish. What we did not realize at the time, was how potent the topical sun can be, so we ended our first snorkeling endeavor slightly more colored than we arrived.

On remote islands dotted with private resorts, a touch of confidence and charm can sometimes open otherwise exclusive doors. A friendly smile to the guard at the elegant entrance of the Sofitel Belvedere, paired with an honest explanation that we simply wanted to admire the resort briefly, turned out to be a winning combination. We got to roam one of the most exclusive resorts on the island and witness up close its overwater bungalows, with their thatched roofs, overlooking the emerald lagoon.

My experience diving with the humpback whales was marked by fright, excitement and a lot of breathing exercises before plunging into the unfathomable ocean. I had read countless accounts describing whale swimming as a “common” Polynesian activity, widely offered by tour operators - so I arrived fully prepared to share the water with these magnificent creatures rather than simply watch them from the safety of the boat.

Our guide at Corallina tours, a local from Bora Bora, explained the drill in detail, emphasizing the need to move stealthily through the water and not splash our fins too loudly, a skill I have yet to master in my erratic swimming.

All the boats were maintaining a respectful distance from the great mammals, so we had to swim a scary stretch of ocean to reach them. 

‘Fins out of the boat’, the Captain ordered decidedly and I was suddenly in the open ocean. 

When I plunged my head in the water, my heart skipped a beat at how intensely blue and electrifying the water was - suddenly the saying ‘deep blue ocean’ has a new meaning for me. My ears pricked at a strange rhythmic and loud sound. When I turned my head, there he was, a male humpback whale, floating serenely, its song so mesmerizing was that almost pulling you towards it. When it was out of sight, I lifted my head from the water, only to see a majestic whale tail, splashing the water, against the backdrop of Mo’orea’s mountains, sending tiny droplets, like smoke, all around. An eerie experience and a sight to remember!

View from the Mo’orea Activities Center, the starting place of the whale tours

Ta’ahiamanu Beach is flanked by dramatic volcanic mountains rising sharply, their crenelated peaks and misty presence pairing splendidly with the pretty palm trees erect on the shore - elements which make for a deeply tropical panorama. We came back to this beach several times, never getting enough of its splendid position. The mountainous view against the turquoise waters with black splashes of coral reefs is still seared in my mind. 

One memorable afternoon, a tropical shower swept over the beach. While most people gathered their belongings and retreated for shelter, we remained behind. Our shelter was a brave palm tree, serene resident of these shores. Under its swaying branches, we stood under the tropical rain, as large droplets pierced the turquoise waters and our skin, so grateful to have the scene entirely to ourselves. Despite the rain, my partner even took his drone out, gliding above the topical landscape.

Another beach that left a lasting impression was Les Tipaniers. Less immediately visible from the roadside than Ta’ahiamanu Beach and noticeably more curated and refined, it rewarded us with spectacular sunsets, perfectly sculpted palm trees ideal for exotic photographs, and a wide range of water activities.

With all the kayaks already rented out, we opted for a small boat instead, my partner delighting in his role as captain for the day. Our destination was clear: the blacktip sharks and gentle stingrays, impossible to miss given the cluster of boats anchored farther out in the lagoon. And so, beyond swimming with majestic humpback whales, we also found ourselves sharing the water with curious little sharks.

Belvedere de Opunohu, how could I even begin to capture the beauty of such a perfect place, one that still lingers in my dreams?

Picture a viewpoint on one of the most tropical islands, reached easily by a winding road we explored on our electric scooter—our vehicle of choice that day. From the top, a window opens onto mountains covered in lush jungle, the air thick with tropical intensity, and, like a scene from a dream, a small stretch of the lagoon tucked between the peaks. Simply unforgettable!

Belvedere de Opunohu

If all the places I’ve mentioned so far haven’t yet shown you just how breathtakingly exotic Mo’orea is, there’s one more straight out of a tropical tale: the Plateau du Bounty.

It was here that I saw my first pineapple fields, the golden, crowned fruits nestled at the base of the iconic mountains, which I had spotted so often on the island. To make the moment even more memorable, a gentle tropical drizzle accompanied my walk through the fields—soft and soothing, never disturbing. The joy of exploring these pineapples was so profound that I chose to feature them in the title of this blog post. Even now, my mind occasionally drifts back to those pineapple trees on that remote island, in the heart of the Pacific. 

I am wrapping up this blog post, one year after having experienced this dreamy island, on the last day of 2025. Nostalgia running high, I am incredibly grateful for my French Polynesia adventure, it was a time of my firsts for me, which makes it difficult to forget: first time in in the water with whales, mesmerized by their intense song; my first encounter with sharks; the gentle brush of a stingray against my skin, revealing how velvety they are; my first stay in an overwater bungalow; and first time flying so incredibly far away.