Seoul, my soul! A Journey into South Korea
The first night of Chuseok 2025 —South Korea’s great harvest festival —found me sprinting through Hongdae in my trademark pink heels, breathless and exhilarated. On one side of the neon-washed street pulsed Tango o Nada, an intimate refuge where ceiling fans stirred the warm air above a dance floor so crowded it seemed to sway as a single heartbeat. Just a few steps away, Club Bonita throbbed with the sensual rhythms of a bachata festival. Two worlds, both intoxicating, both calling my name - and I took full advantage.
Entering Hongdae at midnight felt like stepping into a living kaleidoscope—color, sound, and motion spinning around me with the promise of secrets waiting to be uncovered at every corner. Even now, the memory tingles at the edge of my senses. If I ever return to Seoul—and I will—this is where I want to anchor myself: in the district where art spills into the streets and the night never truly ends.
For this first incursion into the city, though, I set up camp in Myeongdong. Touristy, yes, but irresistibly central, its night market crackling with energy and its countless Olive Young stores glowing like lanterns for beauty pilgrims. From here, Seoul’s essentials unfolded easily before me, as I had travel connections to the major city attractions, prompting me to stay long into the night exploring Seoul.
But the moments that etched themselves onto my heart were the ones spent under the watchful presence of the N Seoul Tower. Rising tranquilly atop Namsan Mountain, the tower was my compass—a serene sentinel visible from so many corners of the city and one of the first landmarks I set my eyes on, upon the night of my arrival in Seoul.
Amid the rush of traffic, the crowds, and the ubiquitous neon-lights, it stood like a lighthouse reminding me to look up, breathe deeply, and let Seoul’s beauty settle gently into my bones.
Seoul’s N Tower
I cannot describe the nighttime atmosphere at Ihwa Mural Village without feeling warmth and awe for its extraordinary position, captivating street art and marvelous views of the N Seoul Tower. I stumbled upon this village on the lower slopes of Naksan Mountain, a beautiful encounter.
Naksan Park happened to be on my visiting list and with no expectations in sight, at dusk, after many hours of visiting, we started the last incursion of the day, looking for the fortress walls that I knew should flank the park.
Naksan Park
To my surprise, we ended up on steep, picturesque streets hosting alluring street art in dimly lit corners and some of the most beautiful cafes the city has to offer. The neon sign on one of the cafes revealed our location, Ihwa Mural Village, a place that will soon become my favorite spot in Seoul. The late night latte savored at one of these cafes carried notes of the melancholy that ensues on finding a spot you deeply resonate with.
In its street art, I have found the “Seoul, my Soul” tagline, which I uncovered to be the official slogan of the city of Seoul, a place that invites you to connect with it on a personal level. I adopted the tagline as the title of this blog, as I truly felt a special connection to this city.
Bursting with excitement, I dedicated my first days in Seoul to exploring its trendies neighborhoods: Ikseon-dong and Insadong. Deciding where to start was no easy task, given the city’s wealth of stylish districts.
Ikseon-dong lived up to everything my research had promised: a modern enclave, with artsy energy from its many small artisan shops, concept cafes, and craft stores. Yet it also retains a historical charm; its narrow alleyways are lined with traditional hanok houses, and the architecture gives the neighborhood a cozy, intimate atmosphere. It’s a good spot to experience enticing deserts, interesting cafes like the Rain Report, where it always rains, or to buy cute souvenirs.
Close to Ikseon-dong lies Insadong, bustling and traditional. The main streets are lined with antique shops, art galleries, and traditional craft stores, reflecting Korea’s rich heritage. It feels like a window into old Seoul, with centuries-old cultural references around every corner.
Strolling towards Insadong
Half a day was dedicated to exploring my favorite tower within the city. The steep ascent towards the N Seoul Tower, after discarding the hours-long queue for the cable car and opting for the stairs, was reminiscent of the climb on the Elephant Mountain in Taipei, in search of the most picturesque views of another iconic tower in Asia, Taipei 101.
The view from the top of the Namsam mountain revealed the beautiful architecture of Seoul, combining skyscrapers and traditional houses against a mountainous backdrop.
Hanging love locks at the base of the tower, a tradition cherished by many given the plethora of locks adorning the rails, seemed silly of first. But the act turned out to be unexpectedly cathartic, reminding me of scenes I’ve watched so many times in Korean movies. In the end, I’m glad I hung my own lock.
Many of the Korean Palaces exhibit the same look and feel, not extraordinarily embellished like Thai or Japanese ones. They exude serenity and incredibly good feng shui, which hits you instantly upon entering their massive gates. Their location amidst the modern city adds to their charm, a permanent reminder of a rich history, not to be forgotten.
We saved Seoul’s grandest landmark—Gyeongbokgung Palace—for later in our journey, hoping to experience it on the first day of Chuseok, Korea’s great harvest celebration. Our timing paid off. The festive occasion opened the palace gates to everyone, and visitors streamed in wearing hanboks, their vibrant silks like petals in the wind.
Even under a brooding sky and steady rain, the palace grounds glowed softly with color. The sight of those elegant garments moving through the mist transformed the entire scene into something almost otherworldly—an ethereal tableau where history, ritual, and weather met to create pure magic.
I used to think that dressing up in a colorful hanbok at Gyeongbokgung Palace was a bit overrated—something charming in photos but perhaps too staged in real life. I was wrong. Once you step on palace grounds in a light but voluminous hanbok, the taste of history deepens and you feel part of the story; you feel the urge to snap pretty pictures of your dress at every corner, every green door and at the same time leave time for admiration and immersion. So, yes, rent a hanbok while at Seoul’s largest palace.
Typically, renting a hanbok grants you free entry to the palace.
Next to the Grand Palace, there is a beautiful hanbok village, highly touristic and possibly subject to curfew as people call the place their home: the Bukchon Hanbok Village.
It features a charming maze of traditional houses and many enticing souvenirs shops. This place makes for a perfect visiting combo, when paired with the Gyeongbokgung Place.
Bukchon Hanbok Village
The Secret Garden Tour at the Changdeokgung Palace stood out. A hidden guided tour which can only be accessed by reservation. Imagine strolling past lotus-shaped pavilions, tranquil ponds, and royal libraries, while a gentle drizzle softens the air and a guide shares stories of kings and queens.
Ever in need to hide indoors from a rainy day, look no further than the Gangnam district, modern, dynamic, home to the upscale Lotte World Mall. In this complex, you can find the entrance towards the Lotte World Tower, Seoul’s futuristic landmark, with an elegant silhouette inspired by traditional Korean pottery.
From up top, Seoul stretches out like a living map, with the Han river curving through the city like a silver ribbon, splitting Seoul in half. Much like on top of the Namsam mountain, I am once again fascinated by the mixture of high-rises, dense around Gangnam, and quieter neighborhoods stretching softly in shades of brown and green.
There is also a glass skywalk, which gave me the surreal feeling of floating above it all.
Continuing in the spirit of finding shelter from Seoul’s rainy October days, look no further than the the Starfield Library in Gangnam’s Coex Mall.
Dimly lit, with towering mountains of books, it feels like stepping into a cathedral made of stories. Pages of old and new books rustle, people hum gently, others hop on the elevator stairs between the towering shelves - the place invites you for a moment of stillness in Gangnam’s busy heart.
This incursion into Seoul filled my heart with warmth and deepened my admiration for the Korean culture. The city feels both bustling and intimate. I adored wandering through palace grounds and hanbok villages, while wearing the traditional hanbok attire.
It was a joy to immerse myself into Hongdae’s artsy energy and dancing scene or feel Gangnam’s polished pulse or to marvel at the vastness of the Han River while crossing it by subway, and to savor ramyun along its shores. I truly hope I will return to Seoul soon.
