Jeddah, a sun-drenched kingdom

Cherished places:

• Al-Balad, a place with no window pane alike

• Al-Haddad Scuba, for an immersive experience into the Red Sea

• Palestine Street, with its terraces serving red tea with peppermint leaves

• New Waterfront Corniche, with its unbelievable sunsets across the Red Sea

Diving at the Red Sea marked my escape to Jeddah in the most unexpected way. The colorful coral reefs and alien sea creatures have longed tantalized my imagination. I couldn't wait to immerse myself into this out-of-this-world experience.

Our initiation took place at Al-Haddad Scuba, where a most enthusiastic guide explained to us the physics of scuba, where breathing and regulating your buoyancy are key. We stepped into the beautiful Sheraton Resort, where Al-Haddad were unfurling their activities, not a soul there in this winter time. Walking amongst the palm trees in humid light, we reached the diving spot - the sea was opening in front of us in the most serene way, the supreme buildings of Jeddah lining up the distance, their shape on the horizon almost like some Arabic writing. 

Mask strapped tight on our faces and oxygen tank hanging ominously on the back, we made our decent into the sea. I knew I had to keep calm and fight the claustrophobic feeling that comes with breathing under water. There was a constant urge to reach the surface and take in fresh, essential air. 

I breathed rhythmically into the apparatus, heart pounding loudly. The decent begun...the coral reefs were shy at first, but the diversity began the deeper we went. I remember passing through a tight coral corridor, chasing the colorful fish. I lifted my eyes a few times only to spot these metallic schools of fish passing by majestically in their kingdom, glistening intensely into the water, the sunshine from the surface making them almost magical. I called the whole experience eerie, as nowhere are the depths so scary, the sense of isolation so intense as in first time scuba diving.

The sundrenched city of Jeddah offered other revelations as well. The incursion to Al-Balad, their historical center, remained steeped into my mind. Imagine a place of narrow alleys and white rugged buildings, where no window pane is alike...some carved in wood in the specific Rochan design, others of an intense turquoise, some others blackened and cracked - it gave the feeling of an incursion into old Arabic times, the locals dressed in traditional attire adding to an atmosphere so different from the European standards. The multiple personalities of the windows reminded me of this post dedicated to windows across the world from the lyrical blog of Notes from the Road.

We explored Al-Balad at noon, when the place was entirely devoid of tourists, with few barracks opened. We were amazed to see a completely animated facet of this place at night, people hurrying in all directions, gold jewelry shops populating entire streets.

Jeddah may be blessed with sun, white buildings and one of the longest waterfront promenades in the world, about 30 km long, but there are architectural and cultural elements that chip away at its charm. Expanding at great length into the desert, Jeddah is a city of streets and large boulevards, an arhitecture that does not cater well to those in search of quiet strolls throughout the city. Large detours must be made to reach landmarks that appear seemingly close on the map. We did not rent a car, but wished we had done so. Even some of the most praised streets in the city like Rari or Thalia Street had little delights in the sunlight apart from endless shopping venues. Palestine Street, however, was different. Flanked by palm trees and narrower than other famous streets in Jeddah, it enables you to stroll unimpeded and stop for tea or coffee at the little terraces along the way.